In an electric oven:
(Source)
So 20 min at 400 F is too hot for a Sig… I wonder if my Glocks could handle that. I better try it. *facepalm*
Why someone would opt to use an oven rather than a rag is beyond me.
Any of you guys ever seen (or done) something similar?
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47 responses to “Drying Off A Sig Sauer Pro”
Several years ago, the then-police chief of my town-which-will-remain-unnamed
(but is the capitol of WI ;-) hid his Glock in his oven. He’d removed the magazine,
but left a round chambered…
…Some time later, he fired up ;-D the oven to 400; around 350+. the chambered round
(really) cooked off, exiting the side of the stove and lodging elsewhere in the house.
I’ll give him some credit – he owned up to it and gave himself a suspension…
I can’t even remember to take out the stack of pots and pans i keep in my oven…
There was a story written last December about an Ann Arbor, MI police officer who did something similar a while back:
“This officer had to endure many jokes at his expense, but he knew the drill and endured the jabs in good spirit. One of the officers, who will retire next week, diabolically crafted the funniest jab using a label maker.
That officer placed a label on the flat or butt end of his gun’s magazine. The label read “OVEN SAFE TO 350 DEGREES.” As I recall the labels caught on, and half the shift had placed them on their guns. I can’t imagine what citizens must have thought if they read the label, but they were worn for several days. ”
http://www.annarbor.com/news/oven-safe-to-350-degrees/
hahah classic
You mean gave himself a paid vacation hahaha
A suspension with pay, right? ;)
I know a friend who dried his cell phone in a microwave. It was one of those supposedly indestructible phones, and it actually did survive.
I’m pretty sure the glock would survive. It has to have a higher quality polymer than Sig.
Sig sucks!
Glock FTW!!!!
HK to rule them all!
Does putting a sig in the oven void the warranty?
I had an idea for a marketable AR-15 accessory. Building the prototype involved cutting up a regular A2 stock and adding some clay to make a fiberglass mold. To speed up the process I put it in the oven the lowest temperature for short periods of time, which worked great. During the second cure the forward end of the stock was resting on the top heating element of the oven because I placed it in there the way a moron would. So the front got banched up a little, but otherwise was useable as a prototype.
Later, before I was able to finish it, a friend of mine found what I was making available online. It had already been patented, and it was the same as mine down to the last detail. I still have the unfinished piece sitting here on my desk awaiting induction into my wall of shame. Story of my life…
Damn that sucks. I’ve had that happen to me more than once too. Do you have a link to the product? I’d like to check it out.
Here’s mine: http://imgur.com/a/culci
And the bastards who stole my idea ;) http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=30918/Product/AR-15-M16-BACKUP-20-BUTTSTOCK
Nearly identical, except mine would have looked a little sexier and I hadn’t thought of the window thing. I use to have nifty animation of the stock being used, but I think that is on another computer.
Damn! Yea that’s a neat idea for a stock.
…well, the hammer looks salvageable.
The slide catch also looks salvageable.
Does the word “duh” mean anything to you at all? 150-180 it MIGHT have been alright. 400?!?! Jeez!
I’ve been caught in a torrential downpour a few times. Towel everything dry, Holster gets hung up on a clothes line, ammo gets put in the “training” box (Never had one not go off even when I’ve dropped mags into snow while shoveling, or gotten the rounds soaked in the rain. So good job Federal HST)
Then I strip everything down and hose it with WD-40 because I’m from Maine! Represent!
Next day I patch everything dry again and apply gun oil.
Yea that’s the smart way to do it!
Never had this happen. I’m an owner of an M&P 9 … there’s so much air gap space that if water did get in I think it would just slough out :P.
I guess this prove that Sigs don’t have a “to hell and back reliability”…. they’ll melt in hell!!
haha nice one.
I’ve had my own problems with drying things in ovens, though not guns. For general drying of sensitive items, take as much moisture off with a towel as possible. Then set it a foot in front of one of those heating fans that you can use under your desk to keep your legs warm, turned to low heat. So far that’s worked on everything I’ve tried it on.
Good idea on the fan. Most of my guns are polymer so I just use a rag, but for wood I could see a fan doing a better job as long as it wasn’t too hot.
I have baked my Glocks and Sigs before, but at no higher than 110. I want to heat the gun up to what Militec calls “live fire temperature” but I don’t want to deal with all the ejecta and deposits from actually firing live rounds. So usually I will first give it a thorough cleaning with Hornady’s One Shot, wipe everything down with a clean rag, then apply Militec, then bake for about 20 minutes at 110 and reassemble.
i dunno, this seems reasonable, considering how easily SIG’s rust.
Why in god’s name would you think “oven” before thinking “blow dryer” ?
400? what a jackass!
I’ve used the oven to dry cap and ball revolvers plenty of times. Usually at 300 or so, just takes a little while, I never let the parts come to full temp. I like to oil them up as soon as they are cool enough to handle bare handed, seems to “season” them a bit like cast iron.
Interesting! Too risky for my blood though. Neat to hear how it changes the finish.
I’ve used the oven to help cure some paints onto metal parts of firearms before. Usually as low as it will go though, I’m not even sure how low it is.
Rignerd….. 300 degress is getting up into the range of annealing heat-treated steel. In other words, you might be baking the temper and strength right out of those (formerly) hardened parts.
While you might not have a cylinder fail in a spectactular “kaboom”, the wear of internal parts like the ratchet, pawl, hand, sear surfaces and trigger & hammer pins and bushings might astound you.
Baking a gun to dry it isn’t a sin, but surely, a temp in the low 100 degree range is more than sufficient to the task.
Jim
Sunk New Dawn
Galveston, TX
F**king retard… I can’t wait to see what will happen when his washing gloves will be wet…
I’d understand that you oven-dry or blow-dry parts that would soak up the water, such as wood parts (stock of a rifle, possibly hand grips), but for the rest (polymer/steel…) isn’t a strip down/rag clean/oil/rag clean enough?
I suspect that heating a gun over normal outdoor temperatures may affect the finish and thus the overall reliability…
I ain’t talking about ammos… this is a different matter.
A Border Patrol Agent did the same thing awhile back. He stashed his HK in the oven for safe keeping, then his wife turned the oven on. If I remember right, he got to it before it looked like this sig but it was still ruined.
What does melting a gun prove?
I’ll bet my 229 wouldn’t melt.
Thank god no old-fashioned grandpas go on this site. The comments here would be filled stuff like “1911s won’t melt because they’re metal and more manly than your puny sig.”
That would be me you’re talking about. I dunno if they’re more manly, but they won’t melt in the oven. It was the first thought I had when I saw the picture. If it’s oven testing, even single action army revolvers will beat out the polymer guns.
My manly Sig is all metal except for the grips.. ;) And yes, I own a 1911.. lol! Never much liked polymer weapons, had a couple of Glocks and they just didn’t feel right. To each their own. Now go out and put some ammo downrange!
Well, it is!
Jim, you won’t really get to ‘screw up the heat-treat’ temps until around 400 or above, though personally 350 would be the absolute max I’d use for such. I have used the oven for baking grease into parkerizing and such, but at much lower temps.
When I train with my 1911 it reaches temps much higher than these poor plastic objects some inconsiderate glocksucker left in his easy bake oven. Before I travel to my secret test range I load up all my ultra high capacity magazines with military grade ammo. During phase one of my session I shoot them all in one long burst only interrupted by my lightning quick magazine changes. I average 750 rpm which is about the semi-auto cyclic limit even for my race modified 1911, but after about 850 continuous rounds the temp is high enough to even get my surplus SR-71 nomex gloves smoking. I then immediately take my 1911 to a 55 gal drum filled with tactical water taken from Coronado beach to cool it off before heading to the 300 meter range for the accuracy portion of my training.
I set a blank firing adapter for an M4 on fire, once.
The SAW gunner in my team, when I was a boot, once welded a BFA the barrel on his 249 once with too many sustained bursts.
I had a friend who had a gun in every room but had to keep his wife from knowing how many gun’s he had bought. One day he is cleaning one of his pistol’s in the kitchen and she came home early. He panicked and put the pistol in the oven. She told him they had to leave and go somewhere right now!!! They came home 2 hour’s later and his son had some friend’s over and they where going to make pizza. Yes you guessed it, the pistol frame started to melt and it started a fire and a round goes off in the oven. He had to replace a stove and a H&K 45. OH yeah…… A 45 will take a pepperoni pizza out in 1 shot!!!
que pelotudos!!! que ganas de romper los huevos!!!
Ok,I’m just mildly confused here…are these airsoft guns or blank firing replicas? Because I’m pretty certain my guns won’t melt at those low ranges… I recall in tech school (welding class) that steel melts at 2000+ degrees F, while aluminum melts at 1220 degrees F. My Sig P226 has an aircraft aluminum frame and a steel slide/internals. Notice in the photo that the only parts not fully melted are the grips,which being the only plastic on my gun *should* be the first thing to melt. Again, I may be wrong on this…but I call fraud. My Sig has been so hot from firing it would burn wood or leather just touching the barrel; never have I melted a gun other than cheap plastic replicas. Check up the stories! (And by the way,Sig is one of the best weapons made, ask the Seals.)
In reply to the above; so I researched my own question (duh) and discovered the weapon here is a polymer plastic Sig (what???). Yes my Sig is the highest quality weapon on earth, NO it is NOT plastic…stay away from the damn toy guns already. Glocks are made of Nylon 6, which melts at 380 F, Sig uses a slightly different formula which melts at 400 F. My gun uses aluminum and steel, which only melt at 1200 F and 2450 F, respectively….so put your plastic guns in the oven and go buy a METAL ONE. Unbelievable….
T.D. Walker with the biggest cock yet and her little metal gun! Do you drive a lifted pick-up too? Polymer guns have advantages over metal and there’s no reason your gun should ever hit 400°. Have you ever held metal in 100°F weather, or below freezing without your little girl gloves on?