The former Magpul CEO (and all around badass) speaks on Airsoft:
The whole time I was thinking “That’s one hell of a mancave… pan the camera around!” I’m still pretty “meh” about airsoft, but he does make some good points.
I guess the main reason i’m not on the airsoft bandwagon is because I don’t train. When I shoot I shoot for fun.
Must be my self-diagnosed internet ADD kicking in again, but 13 minutes on a YouTube video almost kills me.
- You can check out Travis’ buzz word filled new website/company Haley Strategic – HERE
- He’s also got a YouTube channel with some pretty good other videos – HERE
How much are the real good airsoft guns anyway?
Comments
16 responses to “Travis Haley On Airsoft Training”
Depending on the gun (who makes it and gas or electronic) a good basic one is around $300. The ones he’s got in the video are more like $5-700. I stopped buying airsoft and got real when the stuff I kept looking at cost about the same as the real deal. I still have a big mean M16 to keep squirrels out of the yard.
My full metal M60e1 cost $400. That thing is a beast.
A decent airsoft M4-style AEG (automatic electric gun) will start around $100-150, with the pricey ones going up to around $500-700. I’d say most are in the $150-250 range. Here’s a website if you’re interested in doing some research: http://www.evike.com/
I did airsoft for awhile. My opinion get a ar-15 in .22 or 1911 .22 converter. Depends on your system, most systems have a .22 counterpart or a .22 conversion.
and then what. shoot it indoors?
The point of using airsoft as cross training has much more benefits than a 22lr conversion.
When he was talking about going out in the garage and outside to practice, I thought he was going to say make sure you check with your parents first, but he said local laws…
“Decent” (by which I mean ones that have reasonable range, power, and durability) automatic electric guns for airsoft will run between $200 and $400, but the real kicker is ammo – you can get 4000 rounds for all of maybe $15, tops, and as long as you shoot airsoft like you are going to shoot “real” rounds, that will last you a good long while.
I was not so keen on airsoft until I tried it, and it just boils down that it is fun. It can teach you some bad habits as quickly as it can teach you some good ones (especially when it comes to ranges, and how you behave when you are “outside” of an effective range), but it really is just plain entertaining to get out in the field and actually engage in some force-on-force-ish stuff.
Don’t have an airsoft rifle, but I have a pistol that mimics my CZ P07 rather well. I use it for practicing my draw and transistions and will start force on force training with it next month.
I prefer AirsoftGI.com over Evike. I never had issues with ASGI but I had issue with Evike with sending me wrong parts and take forever with low quality customer support. (when I called I always ask for a person who knows wtf they’re talking about and not a sales associate)
ASGI $100+ free shipping and use coupon code (normally an employee name IE: Tim, Bob, Frank)
Another is AirsoftExtreme but they tend to be more pricey. I just like them since I’m only 5 mins away from their LA store.
My suggestion for airsoft M4 if you’re not looking to do any upgrades bur rather just buy, pickup, and play.
Low Budget ($150-200):
JG M4 Enhanced
SRC M4
Medium Budget ($200-$250):
King Arms M4 Metal Body
Higher Budget ($250+):
Any VFC
Socom Gear: Daniel Defense and Noveske Series only.
(as much as I hate to admit) KWA
All airsoft guns will break eventually but of the ones I have listed they will last you the longest and made better than other brands (regarding on internal integrity) Of course all guns can last almost forever if you disassemble and do a maintenance (as if you would with a real firearm)
Based on many years of airsofting and pretty much teching every single m4 brand on the market.
Of course a stock gun cannot out preform the integrity of a properly built custom (internal not external)
FPS is measured with .2g weighted BBs (Unless otherwise stated)
300FPS is minimum, 350FPS is as much as you really need, 400FPS is as much as you should go.
FPS doesn’t really mean anything. The higher the FPS the harder the BBs will hit the target and there is a visible difference when viewing BBs flying at 350 and 400. However just because the FPS is higher does not mean the gun is better.
At 300FPS .2g weight bbs are great and at 350 it is better to use .25g weight bbs. At 400 .25g will get the job done but for the more accurate shots and farther range .28g will be needed. However price wise a .25g is more efficient. Anything higher than 400FPS you will require a heavier weight which does not justify itself in price (better use those weights in sniper rifles than automatics)
Range and accuracy depends on the Hopup and the hopup bucking (Airsoft shoots round balls not shaped bullets) The spin on the BB is what gives the range and accuracy. Overall most stock guns will fire at the least 100 feet and at most 150-200 depending on each brand. The heavier the BB the more accurate and farther the BB will travel. with a proper tune a 400FPS rifle can send a .36g BB over 200ft
With custom tunes a 400FPS can send a .4g 300ft. This is a really far range for a ball bullet to travel (compare a ball bullet to a shaped bullet)
Regarding BBs it is highly recommended (underlined, bold, italicized) to use high quality BBs. The diameter of a barrel can be from 6.01-6.08mm. Most stock barrels are 6.05-6.08mm while certain brands use 6.04 (VFC) and 6.03 or 6.01 (DeepFire)
To the human eye that is not a visible difference but it does help in accuracy…slightly. I suggest at least a 6.05 barrel and at most 6.03 on automatics. However if you’re not really looking for the most accurate shot then it does not apply.
BBs are sold as 6mm but in reality each brand makes their BBs about 5.95mm and higher.
Out of all the BBs I have used I constantly come back to these brand BBs
AirsoftElites, G&G, TSD, KSC, and Goldenball .25g
AirsoftGI G4 .25g (sold only @ ASGI)
I find those brands consistent in shape, no seam, and size. My favorite to go brand is the AirsoftElites.
Every brand differs in the strength of the plastic used and the quality control on the size, seams (there should be none!) and shape (Perfectly circular please)
Battery wise. just grab an Intellect but make sure to grab yourself a smart charger. the average wall charger (dumbcharger, tricklecharger ) will eventually kill your battery. Smart Chargers will charge the battery quicker (normally less than an hour unless large capacity battery) and will stop charging when fully charged while the dumbchargers will slowly charge the battery (4+ hours for 1 battery) and still charge even though the battery is fully charged.
A decent, (relatively) cheap smart charger
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_74&products_id=1224
(I will not go into the topics of LIPOs unless asked.)
Magazines.
Midcaps: (requires a speedloader, suggest KingArms)
Brand: MAG and KingArms.
They’re plastic but durable and the cheapest magazines around.
Hi-Caps: (fill up and go, BBs will rattle and you will require to spin the wheel on the bottom to tension the spring for loading)
Brand: JG, Classic Army.
All hicap magazines will work but the two brands mentioned works well with almost every brand rifle and cost the least for the decent quality.
I’m sure almost everyone has a gunbag and possibly some gear. It’s self explanatory and what you buy is majorly based on how much you have in your budget or what you want specifically.
I seem to have just kept on typing… Well at least it’ll help someone out.
Don’t forget to buy fully sealed goggles for eye protection. Shooter glasses can not protect your eyes completely and most reputable airsoft fields require a minimum of fully sealed goggles.
(If an airsoft field calls for a paintball mask… go somewhere else that does not require the paintball mask. A CQB field is an exception.)
the above post will at least get you start playing properly without wasting money in the long run.
Forgot to mention in the post above.
Never use dropped/used BBs. At hundreds of feet per second a plastic ball will deform after hitting objects. Though minuscule in change and may not be visibly seen different a bb on the ground is a “dirty” BB.
A millimeter is small, a tenth of a millimeter is smaller, a hundredth of a millimeter isn’t visible to the naked eye. Any deformation can and will jam a BB in the barrel. It’s not worth having shattered bb parts destroying the inside of your gun.
Batteries
Higher the voltage the more BBs the gun will fire.
mah is the capacity. higher the mah the longer you can play.
LIPOs are slightly different and I will not comment on as that will be a whole article by itself.
For those who question the Honor System (calling hits) here’s a reason why it work. I want you to not call your hits. See how many players will start engaging you at closer distances at full auto (at least 15 rounds per second while certain guns can go upwards to 50 [highly modified]) with guns shooting at least 350FPS.
At least in paintball they stop once the paint is shown (1 big bruise)
In airsoft you’ll find a cheater with at least 15 welts if not more.
You will also be banned on the field for cheating. What a waste of money just cause you didn’t call your hits….
I find paintball an enjoyable sport. It’s fast paced and up in your face. Similar to COD
I find airsoft an enjoyable tactical sport (play with players that are not under-aged and you will see more tactics used) Similar to BattleField.
I don’t mix the two and they both excel on their own turf. (just like the games)
Try to find an airsoft field. Not a paintball field that has airsoft as another option for it’s field.
I play paintball and expect to get paint on me.
I play airsoft and do not want to lean on paint covered walls.
Heh.. I haven’t even touched the on gasguns and pistol topic yet..
nah. i have real guns.
Your arrogance is very distasteful Critter.
Of course you cannot completely replace real firearms training you can at least partially replace the training with overall efficiency.
No one said to not use your real firearm.
You have got to be kidding me. I think this video explains why this dweeb is a former CEO. Get a real weapon and practice the basics. If you’re spending hundreds on ammo you have been taught wrong or you just aren’t getting it and I’d rather dry fire with my real weapon than play with a plastic toy. Come on people, enough of all this tacticool ninja training BS.
He’s a former CEO because he quit. If you check out his other videos you’ll see he definitely practices a lot with real guns, and he never says not to use real firearms. Actually, I’m not sure if you were sleeping through this video, because he says that you should be using airsoft to practice certain things and then use actual firearms to make sure you’re training right, not to exclusively use airsoft. Perhaps dry fire and similar methods are good for you, but for getting into different stances and practicing certain weapon manipulations airsoft is not a bad idea.
>If you’re spending hundreds on ammo you have been taught wrong or you just aren’t getting it
Are you seriously suggesting that people at a high level of proficiency don’t need frequent live-fire practice to maintain their skills?
My local range has closed and the next closest one is over an hour away. I was thinking about getting an airsoft replica of my USPSA gun so I can at least get some practice in with it. It’s not a direct compliment but it’s currently the best option I have to get some practice in.